Hoodie Fabrics: French Terry, Loopback and Brushed Fleece

All sweatshirt fabrics look similar from the outside: a smooth knitted face. The difference is entirely on the inside, and that is what determines how warm the garment is, how it hangs, and how long it keeps looking new.

French terry

The inside face is covered in small uncut loops of yarn — the same principle as a towel, at a much finer scale.

Those loops trap a thin layer of air without adding much bulk, so french terry is warm relative to its weight but still breathable. It is the most versatile of the three: comfortable indoors, fine outdoors under a jacket, and it does not overheat.

It also drapes rather than standing away from the body, which reads as tidier, and because the loops are uncut the surface stays stable through many washes.

Loopback

Loopback is french terry's heavier relative — same uncut loop construction, but knitted denser and usually from thicker yarn.

The extra density gives the fabric structure. A loopback hoodie holds its shape, the hood stands properly instead of flopping, and the cuffs and hem keep their line. This is the construction most often used for garments meant to last years rather than seasons.

The trade-offs are weight and drying time. A wet loopback sweatshirt takes a long time to air dry, which matters if you only own one.

Brushed fleece

Fleece starts as a looped fabric, then the loops are mechanically brushed open to create a soft napped surface.

That nap is why fleece feels immediately plush and why it is the warmest of the three at a given weight — the raised fibres hold more air. It is also why it is the least durable in appearance: the brushed fibres flatten and pill with wear and washing, so a fleece hoodie looks older than a french terry one of the same age.

Fleece is the right answer for maximum warmth and immediate comfort. It is the wrong answer if you want the garment to still look presentable in three years.

What weight to look for

Sweatshirt fabrics are quoted in GSM like t-shirts, and the ranges are simply higher.

• Around 250 to 280 GSM: lightweight. Good indoors and for layering in mild weather. Will not hold a hood upright.
• Around 300 to 350 GSM: the everyday range. Warm enough alone in cool weather, structured enough to look deliberate.
• 380 GSM and above: heavy. Substantial, holds shape completely, slow to dry, and warm enough to replace a light jacket.

The details that decide lifespan

• Ribbing with elastane at cuffs and hem. Without it the cuffs stretch out permanently and the hem stops holding, which is what makes an old sweatshirt look shapeless.
• A double-layer hood. A single-layer hood collapses flat against the back. Two layers of fabric give it enough body to stand.
• A gusset or reinforcement at the neck seam. The point where the hood meets the body takes the most stress when the hood is pulled up.
• Set-in sleeves for structure, raglan for movement. Neither is better, but a raglan shoulder is more forgiving across body shapes.

Choosing quickly

• One hoodie for everything: french terry, 300 to 330 GSM, ribbed cuffs with elastane.
• Cold weather, worn outside: loopback, 380 GSM and up.
• Warmth and softness above all: brushed fleece, accepting that it will pill.
• Layering under a jacket: lightweight french terry — anything heavier adds bulk at the shoulders.

Turn any sweatshirt inside out before buying it. Loops mean terry, a soft nap means fleece, and that single glance tells you most of what you need.